There are not many Swiss wines
available in Hong Kong so when given the chance to taste them I always jump at
the opportunity as they are unique wines and offer something different to the
usual, run of the mill wines from the more prominent wine producing countries around
the world. The fact that a very small percentage of Swiss wines are even
exported makes them a delight to try, but also adds to their mystique – and sometimes
their price.
I have tried many wines from
Neuchatel, the region north east of Geneva and, like Valais, bordering France,
but further to the North of the country. Wines from Neuchatel are good too but
make up a very small percentage of production of the country and are often hard
to find due to limited numbers of wines exported.
Valais though produces 40 per
cent of Switzerland’s wine and is the largest wine producing region in the
country and plays host to dozens of grape varieties of both the indigenous and
international variety. Its climate situated in the valley’s of the Alps is a
sunny one with the mountains holding back the rains, creating warm winds that
disperse cloud cover and keep the temperatures mild. Warm days and cool nights
help develop the aromas and complexity as the grapes edge nearer to harvest.
The Swiss are almost producing
50/50 red and white wines these days and the two most planted grapes in the
region of Valais are Chasselas (Fendant) and Pinot Noir. This is followed by
Gamay, Sylvaner, Syrah and Petite Arvine.
Valais borders the Rhone Valley
of France and, in fact, the river Rhone starts in Switzerland and flows through
Valais on its way to France and the region can itself, also be called a Valley
of the Rhone. This would thus explain the high proportion of Gamay and Syrah
grown in the area as we all know the French Rhone valley is known for Syrah.
Personally, what I find more
interesting than the international varieties are the indigenous ones, or at
least ones that are found and used more so in the region for the production of
regional wines. The Chasselas makes some very approachable whites, great for
summer time drinking and also great with raclette and fondue I am led to
believe. The Arvine grape that makes the Petite Arvine is a lovely little white
with body and character whilst the Humagne Rouge is something you should most
definitely give a try if given the opportunity.
I was fortunate enough to meet up
with Damien Fleury, owner of the Swiss Wine Store here in Hong Kong last week
and taste some wines from Jean-Rene Germanier who makes some great modern-style
wines using some of the fantastic indigenous grapes in the region – he also makes
a few with international varieties blended in but my focus was the region
varieties.
The Fendant (the name for Chasselas
in the Valais region) is a Swiss classic and a variety that they have made
their own and one they are staunchly proud of. Going with traditional foods
such as raclette and fondue has its benefits and this is an immensely popular
wine in the region. The Fendant from Jean-Rene Germanier is easy drinking and refreshing
and I would suggest that this wine would work well with most styles of food,
and would do well with Asian based dishes.
The Petite Arvine – also known as
the “Queen of Valais” – is the most emblematic wine of the region with an
intensive nose of rhubarb and lemon. It’s racy on the palate and extremely
fresh. I tried this with a raclette at home last week and was amazed to find
that Damien was right and the pairing of white wine with this cheese really
does work well!
I have to say I loved the
Jean-Rene Germanier Humagne Rouge with its intense and complex nose a hint of
the mystery that comes with the palate of the wine. There are notes of vanilla
and spice and the wine is crisp on the palate with no unpleasant factors
whatsoever. I would love to try this wine with roast duck (local style) or
roast pigeon as I think it would work really well. Alternatively, if you are at
home, grab a nice piece of cheese, some bread and end you meal with a nice
combination of Swiss wines and (maybe) Swiss Cheese!
Finally I tasted the Amigne de Vetroz
2 Bees, a wine that would be a nice alternative to other sweet wines or would
make a nice pairing to Foie Gras, blue cheese, spicy Asian cuisine or just with
dessert. It’s rich and smooth and actually not as sweet as I imagined it would
be. This though is a blessing as it is clean and crisp on the palate with no
sensation of cloying. Made from the Avigne grape, this wine reaches its best
after around 6 years in the bottle and the 2 bees on the label are an
indication of sweetness – with three being the highest.
Overall, it was a real delight to
taste these wines and continue on our mission for 2013 to taste and tell you
about some of the least common wines on the Hong Kong market, be they from
unknown regions or produced from unknown grapes. The region of Valais really
does make some cracking wines and in my experience thus far are full of wonder
and intrigue, something in itself that makes wine drinking such a pleasure.
More information on the wines of
Jean-Rene Germanier, Valais and other Swiss regions can be found by visiting local
Hong Kong importer “The Swiss Wine Store” – www.theswisswinestore.com – or you
can contact them directly at info@theswisswinestore.com
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