The Star Lane winery is owned and managed by
the Dierberg family, the same family that own the Dierberg winery and is
located in the Santa Ynez valley in Southern California. In fact, it is
actually located in a canyon called Happy Canyon, which goes some way to explaining
why the wines made here are so approachable and fun to drink.
The dominant grape variety in the vineyards is
Cabernet Sauvingon, a grape best suited to the warm climate of the valley, but
is also joined by a fair amount of Cabernet Franc with small amounts of Petit
Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc.
Sales and Marketing manager for Dierberg Winery,
Jia Min Dierberg and Star Lane Vineyard General Manager Kurt Ammann visited
Hong Kong last week to host a blending session to see who could come up with the
best blend of wines from three of the Star Lane plots. The three components
given to the attendees were Hill Side Cabernet Sauvignon, Valley Floor Cabernet
Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, all from the 2011 vintage and having finished
their time in barrel, were ready to go into the Star Lane final blend.
Cabernet Franc, although generally a small time
component of many blends around the world is actually a major part of Star Lane’s
blends and while tasting the three different wines on their own, it was clear
to see the distinction between the valley floor and the hill side Cabernets,
the former more fruity and tannic and the latter more concentrated. The
Cabernet Franc had the spiciness needed to give the blend its complete
structure.
Having only ever done one blending session before
and that being with a Bordeaux winery, the general idea of what to do was not
unknown but blending truly is an art form and not something that is
particularly easy. Commonly, winemakers will go through hundreds of blends
before they find the one that they like the best and the one that best fits what
the winery is trying to express.
We only had an hour and our team, comprised of
wine and food writers (three of us) got to work quickly, randomly picking the wines
we had preferred on their own and doing some calculations of what we thought
would make a wine that we personally liked ourselves. That’s essentially the
trick in blending, you have to like the wine yourself as if you don’t like it,
how do you expect others to like it either?
Star Lane General Manager Kurt Ammann |
The only stipulation from Kurt and Jia Min was
that the wine had to be comprised of at least 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, but of
that 75% it could be made up from the two different Cabernets that we had at hand.
We started off with a blend of 65% Valley
Slope, 30% Hill Side and 5% Cabernet Franc but it just wasn’t to our liking so we
tweeked the percentages a little but still weren’t coming up with anything we
would be happy to present to the other blenders – in fact, we weren’t even happy
to drink the blends we had made so we went for a different direction.
Trying for something completely different we
went 92% Valley Slope and 8% Cabernet Franc but upon trying it we knew we were
going in completely the wrong direction as the wine was out of balance and just
did not sit well on the palate. Running out of time, we made a rash decision
and randomly picked three numbers, with the highest number having to be the
wine we liked least on its own. We came up with a 78% Valley Floor, 9% Hill Side
and 13% Cabernet Franc and, after blending and tasting we looked at each other with
astonishment. It was nice! Palatable, with the right balance between fruit and
tannin with a subtle spicy finish that was fairly persistent. Thinking this was
the kind of wine that would drink well now and had some aging potential we went
with this and headed into the blind tasting session of all the others blends
and ours together.
Our Second Place "APR" Blend |
Amongst all the tasters, two blends stood out
from all the others – number 1 and number 3. We were convinced that number 3
was our wine and so we voted that first and number 1 second and were feeling
confident of the win! After the results were tallied up number 3 was definitely
the most popular of the blends but sadly, it was not our wine! Our wine was
number 1 however and this was overwhelmingly voted as the second best wine of
the lot! We were pretty happy, got to bottle our blend and take it away to be
enjoyed at a later date.
The winning blend? Oh yeah, it was 50% Valley
Floor, 35% Hill Side and 15% Cabernet Franc and it was a really pleasing wine.
It’s a lesson learned in how hard it is to get a blend exactly to your liking
and how taking components of a wine you may not necessarily like on its own and
blending them makes for a wine you can really enjoy. Overall, it was a great
experience and a lot of fun and we are looking forward to doing it again with
Kurt and Jia Min next time they are in Hong Kong. If you get the chance to
attend a blending workshop, go and do it, you will learn a lot about what goes
into the wine you like and may even find something that you enjoy and can do in
your spare time!
Star Lane and Dierberg Wines are imported and
distributed in Hong Kong by Natural Econometrics Limited. For more information
on these and other California wines on their portfolio, contact Janie Woo at jwoo@2nei.com
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