Paolo Scavino: Father and Daughter in Hong Kong

Paolo Scavino is an historical winery in the Barolo region that was founded in 1921 by Lorenzo Scavino and his son, Paolo. Realising the quality of the land they had the family set about making the best possible wines and growing the best possible fruit from the three main varietals in the region, Barbera, Dolcetto and, of course Nebbiolo.

Since that day the winery has always been in the family and the fourth generation, the grand-daughters of Paolo Scavino are now an integral part of the family operation. Speaking with current owner Enrico Scavino he tells me; “It’s very important to share each day with the family. It’s part of daily life; we eat, drink and share daily experiences together as a family”.

Enrico and his youngest daughter Elisa are in Hong Kong and yesterday hosted a tasting of the full range of their wines. The family makes comparatively small amounts of wine from the 23 hectares they have in the Barolo region. Total production is around 10,000 cases per year. Asked how he first got into winemaking Enrico says. “I started making wine in 1951 because I left school when I was ten years old, but my family was already making wines on the estate since 1921. My father was very ambitious and the concept of quality was always something he felt strongly about”.

The commitment to quality is one thing more than any that has been passed on from generation to generation and this can be seen in the respect and enthusiasm Elisa herself has. Elisa tells me that; “We have and have had great clients in our history who have always been happy with our wines. It was a great learning experience to learn from my father and grandfather to witness the enthusiasm they both had for the job”. A sentiment Enrico agrees with and one that he too can relate to.

“One of my oldest friends and someone I have a lot of respect for is Aldo Conterno”, says Enrico when asked who more than any helped shape and influence the man as a young wine maker. “I was just a small estate back then but we were one of the first estates to vinify and bottle single estate wines”.

“At the time there were less wineries in the region and many of my generation were looking to get out of Italy – at the time, being a winemaker was not considered to be a very important job”.

But through innovation and perseverance, the Scavino family is one winery that has flourished because of the pioneering nature of Enrico’s generation. Without these innovative winemakers Barolo would still be making high yield, late drinking wines. The concept of green harvesting and berry selection, separate vinification by lots and the use of French oak is something that has transformed the way in which wines are made this day in Barolo.

“Winemaking before was very different to what it is now”, Enrico elaborates. “Before there were maybe only 2 great vintages every decade with 5 or 6 vintages too rainy or too cold to make great Nebbiolo. Also vineyard practices have changed also with a focus on quality fruit and ensuring only the best grapes go into the wine, certainly yields are much lower these days”.

“Once upon a time people thought you’d have to wait 20 or 30 years to drink Barolo because when young they were so aggressive, but these days you can enjoy and drink them much younger due to the way we make the wine. The younger wines are fresher and more complex these days than they were back 30 or 40 years ago”.

I asked Enrico when he was going to retire and leave the work to his daughters. “Never!” he tells me. “I love this work and have a real passion for the land. I was born in the house where I live and my daughters are the same, we have only ever lived in this house”.

“My heart and soul is in the land and the estate; I can’t imagine ever not being on the land every day. It’s fortunate to have been born into this and have the privilege to make wines on this land”.

Elisa quietly whispers to me so her father can’t hear. “We are never going let him retire anyway! My generation have a fantastic opportunity as my parents have made a permanent sacrifice for the family – they made the decision to make wine at a time when it was not considered a good thing to be doing or a way of life to choose”.

“Our family have not just planted the vines”, she says. “We have planted our roots in the land we live and work on every day”.

Paolo Scavino wines are available from Prowine here in Hong Kong. For more information you can contact Keti Mazzi on ketimazzi@prowine.com.hk or Julian Tse on juliantse@prowine.com.hk